Massawa: Touch, Taste, and ENJOY!

By Benjamin Ramos Rosado, http://Sofritoinmysoul.blogspot.com 

There’s nothing more primal and satisfying than eating with your hands.  Many will try to convince you that it’s unsanitary and uncivilized, but what they fail to realize is that this ancient and widely practiced method of eating creates a uniquely intimate bond with your food.   Inspired by an article I read (“Eating with your hands is healthier” by Stasia Bliss published on guardianlv.com), I decided to visit to one of my favorite African restaurants in the city, Massawa, where eating with your hands is all the rage.

New York City is full of Ethiopian/Eritrean restaurants, but few have the authenticity and allure of Harlem’s Massawa.  Small wooden tables, a fully stocked bar, beautiful East African art, and soft lighting, make Massawa a warm and cozy place to enjoy dinner with family or friends.  It was the perfect setting to put what I learned from the article to the test. 

As I re-read the article, I asked my server if he thought eating with your hands was healthier than using utensils; he vehemently agreed!  Having been raised in rural Eritrea, eating with his hands was the norm.  He said this method of eating makes you acutely aware of your hygiene (you always wash your hands before and after a meal); it helps you get a tactile sense of your food (you don’t eat what feels too hard or slimy); and it helps you digest better, because you enjoy the experience.  He thought the topic was interesting and asked one his fellow servers to join the conversation.  Massawa’s servers are always friendly, helpful, and attentive.

It was a cold night, so I decided to start dinner with a cup of Massawa’s Special spice tea. Made from cinnamon, cardamom, and clover, this tea’s an Eritrean staple.  Usually you drink it after a meal, but I needed to get the chill out of my bones. It was absolutely delicious; the flavor of each of those earthy and rich spices came across brilliantly.  When I added half a packet of Splenda to the tea, the hint of sweetness made it all the more incredible. 

Feeling warm and hungry, I looked over the appetizers (http://www.massawanyc.com/#!menu) and was torn between the Beef Sambusa (Four pastry shells filled with ground beef flavored with spices) and the Vegetable Sambusa (Four pastry shells stuffed with a variety of vegetables).  I ordered the Vegetable Sambusa, because it would be healthier and not too filling.

According to the article, when you touch your food before eating it the millions of nerve endings on your fingertips send information immediately to the stomach; this stimulates the stomach to produce the enzymes needed for digestion.  Keeping this in mind, I decided to feel the sambusa before eating it.  It was warm, flaky and soft; I was happy to notice that, for a fried appetizer, it wasn’t greasy.  I couldn’t tell if my stomach was producing digestive enzymes or not, but my salivating mouth was prompting me to eat.

The sambusa was simple and delicious.  It contained diced carrots, spinach and potatoes and was paired with two dipping sauces. One was a vinegar, green pepper and garlic mix and the other was Azawe, an Ethiopian/Eritrean marinade made with berbere, oil, and water or Tej (an Ethiopian honey wine).  The vinegar mixture added a wonderful hint of acid and crunchy texture to the appetizer; the Awaze was spicy, yet subtle and had an interesting earthy flavor as well. 

Having sufficiently stimulated my appetite, it was time for the main event!  Massawa’s entrée menu is divided into 6 sections (See the menu: http://www.massawanyc.com/#!menu2).  Usually, I order Lamb or Beef, but I decided to break with convention and ordered seafood.  The Monkfish (Tenderly and slowly simmered with rosemary, lime, garlic and black peppers), Shrimp Tebsi (Shrimp delicately sautéed with tomatoes, peppers, onions and berbere) and Shrimp Hiwas (shrimp sautéed with collard greens or cabbage) were all tantalizing in their own way, but I decided to order the Shrimp Combo, which combined elements of the Tebsi and Hiwa. 

The Shrimp combo was served with a small side of salad (lettuce and shredded carrots dressed with oil), pureed chickpeas, spicy shrimp (sautéed with onions and berbere), and mild shrimp (sautéed with tomatoes, and cabbage). The entrée also came with a side of Injera, a traditional Ethiopian/Eritrean flatbread made of Teff, a calcium rich grain.  It’s used to scoop up food and to sop up sauces. Injera is soft, moist and spongy to the touch.  It also has an elastic quality to it, but becomes firmer as it cools.  It tastes a bit sour, but is mostly bland.

As I looked over my entrée, I kept in mind one of the article’s most important points: Eating with your hands engages all your senses and keeps you “present” while you eat, this means you become aware of portion size and the quantity of the food you’re consuming. 

Impatiently, I tore off a piece of injera and scooped up some salad; it was light, crunchy and refreshing.  I could’ve eaten the entire portion in a few scoops, but decided to parcel it out throughout the meal. I knew the crunchy salad would add some texture to the rest of the meal.

The aroma of the spicy shrimp was too delicious to ignore, so I scooped some up with my bread and paired it with the pureed chickpeas.  It wasn’t easy to scoop the puree into the injera and shrimp, so instead I soaked the bread and shrimp into the puree. The chickpeas were well seasoned and provided a rich earthy taste to the combo.  The shrimp was delicious and intense, but the chickpeas and injera muted the flavor and made it easier to eat. The combined flavors of the injera, shrimp and chickpeas were balanced and complementary.

The mild shrimp was also good, but a bit bland on its own.  When it was combined with the acidic sweetness of the tomatoes, crunchy cooked cabbage and the side salad, it became delicious.

As I ate, I noticed I was eating slower and was judicious about portion size.  I wasn’t trying to race through the meal; instead I was savoring each bite and meticulously preparing each scoop of injera.  This type of focus isn’t present when we use utensils.  We use them as shovels to heave large forkfuls or spoonfuls down our throats so we can finish as soon as possible.  I felt very “present” and ate enough to satiate my hunger; I even had leftovers for lunch the next day.

After dinner, my server asked me if I wanted to order dessert, I declined, but reviewed the dessert menu nonetheless. Massawa’s menu features the standard dessert fare such as Tiramisu, Cheesecake and Rum cake.

To be honest, I can’t prove that eating with your hands is healthier than using utensils, but I can tell you that my dining experience was different and a lot more interesting.  I did feel an intimate connection to my food and was more aware of portion sizes.  Maybe, it was the power of suggestion or maybe not, who knows?  The one thing I am certain of is that the food at Massawa is wonderful! So put down the silverware, wash your hands and go taste for yourself! ¡Buen provecho! 

Massawa

1239 Amsterdam Ave

New York, NY 10027

(212) 663-0505

Website: www.massawanyc.com 

HOURS: Daily: 11:30am-11:30pm 

ATMOSPHERE: Causal and relaxed. 

SERVICE: Good. 

SOUND LEVEL: Conversational. 

KID FRIENDLY: Yes. 

RECOMMENDED DISHES: I love the lamb, beef and seafood Sections:  http://www.massawanyc.com/#!menu2 

BEVERAGES: Sodas, wine, missed drinks and teas ($3-$25). 

PRICE RANGE: Consult the menu link: http://www.massawanyc.com/#!menu2

La Cabaña Salvadoreña: Remembering Washington D.C. in Washington Heights!

By Benjamin Ramos Rosado, http://Sofritoinmysoul.blogspot.com

Isn’t it amazing how food can transport you back in time? I think it’s incredible how the sight, smell and taste of a meal can evoke nostalgia and sentimentality. That’s exactly how I feel every time I eat a pupusa (pronounced pooh-pooh-sah). From the first bite, I’m instantly taken back to my younger carefree college days in Washington D.C. The power of pupusas cannot be denied, especially the amazing ones prepared at La Cabaña Salvadoreña.

When I was 18 years old, I moved to Washington D.C. to attend American University. Being resourceful, I reached out to a group of contacts some friends of mine advised me to call once I arrived in D.C. These contacts-who became my friends- introduced me to D.C.’s Salvadoran/Central American neighborhoods: Adams Morgan, Mount Pleasant and Columbia Heights.

I volunteered, worked and interned for many of the local nonprofit organizations in the neighborhoods, so naturally, I ate there a lot-a whole lot. It was over countless lunches and dinners with friends and co-workers that I learned about Salvadoran culture and fell in love with the cuisine.

On weekends, I volunteered at the Latino senior center in Adams Morgan and was fortunate enough to have a few Salvadoran abuelitas (grandmas) who prepared homemade pupusas and tamales for me. They knew I was far from home and needed some home spun TLC. Those delicious homemade treats got me through many “all nighters” and spared me the horrible cafeteria food.  I loved those abuelitas! I will always miss them and appreciate their kindness.

Every time I go to La Cabaña Salvadoreña (in Washington Heights), I fondly remember those sweet smelling eateries, the hours-long meals with friends, and my amazing abuelitas. It’s the nostalgia and excellent food that keep me going back.

La Cabaña is a small restaurant with a take out counter and 11 dining tables. The decor is minimal and the walls are lined with mirrors, the classic design tactic to make a space seem bigger. The atmosphere is relaxed and causal; like most mom-and-pop places it’s a great place to have a relaxed meal with friends.  Recently, La Cabaña added the storefront next door and opened a small bar with additional dinner seating.

La Cabaña’s wait staff is attentive and friendly. I’ve always been greeted with a welcoming disposition and a smile. The waitresses at La Cabaña remind me of the wait staff I encountered in Adams Morgan; many of those young ladies had recently immigrated to the U.S. and were struggling single mothers. I always appreciated their service, conversation and the awesome gossip they had on everyone!

La Cabaña’s menu is divided into 8 sections, you can review it at Menu Pages:

http://www.menupages.com/restaurants/la-cabana-salvadorena/menu 

The last time I visited La Cabaña, I decided to forego my carb controlled diet and had a good old-fashioned pig out. I opened the menu to the Platos Salvadoreños section and ordered a tamal de pollo (chicken) and elote (sweet corn), platanos maduros con crema (fried ripe plantains with sour cream), and a pupusa de pollo.

Probably the most popular Salvadoran dish, pupusas are flat cornmeal tortillas that are filled with meat, cheese or beans. My pupusa was served with curtido, a Salvadoran relish made with shredded cabbage and carrots that are fermented in salt and vinegar. The pupusa was wonderful; the outside was sweet and crispy, yet soft inside with a delicious ground chicken stuffing. Paired with the crunchy and briny curtido, the dish was an excellent combination of differing textures and flavors. 

The tamales de pollo and elote were also wonderful. The tamal de pollo’s dough was warm, sweet, and moist; the chicken inside was delicious. It was served with a side of hot tomato sauce, which added a wonderful hint of acid to the dish.

The Tamal de elote’s dough was thicker and tasted like sweet corn bread. It was paired with a small helping of sour cream that added a burst of tangy flavor to balance the sweetness of the elote.

 

The platanos maduros con crema was amazing. To some, it may seem gross to eat warm fried sweet plantains dipped in cold sour cream, but it’s surprisingly delicious. It’s odd, but you have to try it for yourself. The flavors-sweet and tangy-coupled with the opposing temperatures makes this dish awesome.  I encourage you to put away whatever doubts you may have and give it a chance.

 

Despite my pig out, I was still hungry, so I ordered a large Sopa de Res (Beef Soup). It featured small cuts of spare rib, carrot slices, pieces of corn on the cob, chopped cilantro, onions, and chayote-a type of gourd from Latin America, with a subtle flavor, reminiscent of squash.

The cuts of spare rib were soft and well seasoned. The simple beef broth was light and savory; it balanced the sweetness of the carrots and corn perfectly. The cilantro and onions were crunchy and added an excellent hint of flavor to the soup. 

They say, “you can never go home again”…but you can reminisce. La Cabaña isn’t exactly like my old haunts in D.C. (most of which have shut down), but the delicious food reminds me of a fun and adventurous time in my life. I may not be able to go back to those good old times, but the new memories I make at La Cabana with friends, family and my partner are just as good. I hope you go to La Cabaña and make some amazing memories of your own. Go taste for yourself! ¡Buen provecho! 

La Cabaña Salvadoreña

4384 Broadway

New York, N.Y.

212-928-7872

HOURS: Mon.-Thurs. 10:30am-10pm Fri.-Sun. 10am-11:30pm 

ATMOSPHERE: Causal and relaxed. 

SERVICE: Excellent. 

SOUND LEVEL: Conversational. 

KID FRIENDLY: Yes. 

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Pupusas, Tamales, Meat Section, and Soups. 

BEVERAGES and PRICE RANGE: See the menu link:

 http://www.menupages.com/restaurants/la-cabana-salvadorena/menu

 

A Spoonful of Sofrito: Bangin’ Banh Mís!

Bangin’ Banh Mís 

  A Spoonful of Sofrito: A pinch of advice that will add a lot of flavor to your life!

 

By Benjamin Ramos, http://Sofritoinmysoul.blogspot.com

I believe the three greatest inventions are: the wheel, in door plumbing, and the sandwich.  Are you really surprised a die-hard Foodie like me thinks sandwiches are a better invention than I phones, architecture and culture?  Don’t be!  Sandwiches are amazing! They combine grains, vegetables, proteins, dairy, fats and oils together in perfect synthesis.  They can be eaten for any meal of the day, prepared in a myriad of ways and can be found in almost every culture around the world. One of the most exciting and delicious examples of this culinary work of art is the Vietnamese Banh Mí.

The Banh Mí is a popular sandwich that combines Vietnamese and French ingredients-remember, the French colonized Vietnam-together to create an amazing array of flavors and textures.  A good Banh Mí starts with a Vietnamese influenced French baguette made with Rice flour; this makes the bread crispy, yet soft.  

 

The sandwich is filled with salty cold cuts (ham or bologna), savory roasted meats (such as pork or beef) and occasionally some fatty pork pâté and pork headcheese.  It also features cucumbers, daikon, pickled carrots, cilantro and chile peppers.  These crunchy vegetables add a wonderful refreshing, piquant and vinegar flavor, which balances out the proteins’ tastes and textures.  

To round it off, Banh Mís are seasoned with a buttery mayonnaise spread, which adds a wonderful creamy, sweet, and fatty flavor to the sandwich.

Banh Mís can be found in every Vietnamese enclave in the city and at some of the best Vietnamese restaurants in Midtown.  Poultry, Seafood and vegetarian versions of Banh Mís are becoming popular as well.  This sandwich’s versatility is amazing and never ceases to impress. 

So if you are a sandwich lover or feel like taking a culinary adventure, then visit one of my featured eateries below and treat yourself to an incredible Banh Mí! Go taste for yourself! ¡Buen provecho! 

1: Bành Mí Zòn: 443 East 6th Street, New York NY  646-524-6384, banhmizon.com 

2: Com Tam Ninh Kieu: 2641 Jerome Ave Bronx, NY 10468 (718) 365-2680

 
3: Saigon Vietnamese Sandwich: 369 Broome Street, New York NY, 212-219-8341

Polash: Taking risks is the spice of Life!

By Benjamin Ramos Rosado, http://Sofritoinmysoul.blogspot.com

Nothing is ever what it seems.  Polash, an Indian restaurant in El Barrio, is the perfect example of this truism.  With its simple façade and humble decor, Polash may seem uninteresting and easy to ignore, but those people open minded enough to walk through its unpretentious doors will find an amazing assortment of Northern Indian dishes that will satisfy the curiosity of any culinary explorer.

 

Located on E.118^th and 3^rd Avenue, Polash is a large restaurant with 16 tables, ample floor space and minimal decor.  As you walk in, there’s a lunch buffet (12:00 pm-3:45 pm) to the left and a fully stocked bar in the back.  Polash is dimly lit with glass mini-chandeliers and features an assortment of oil paintings of different landscapes along the walls.

With the Silberman School of Social Work at Hunter College across the street, Polash has a diverse clientele of students, faculty, and neighborhood regulars.  The night I visited, I asked a jovial and extremely loud young Mexican student sitting next to me what she recommended and she suggested I try their curries; she assured me they were all delicious.  Her drunk and somewhat coherent friends vehemently agreed with her.

 

My attentive and helpful server, Sanjit, agreed with my neighbor, but encouraged me to look through the rest of the menu before I made any decisions.  I asked the young Mexican student, what she thought of the service and she agreed Polash’s service is always good.

 

As I looked over my menu, Sanjit placed a complementary dish of papadum with three chutneys on my table.  Papadum is a thin and crispy cracker made of seasoned black gram (also known as Black Lentil) dough that is served with most Indian meals. The three chutneys were sweet tamarind, spicy mint, and an onion relish (onions in a tomato sauce). 

 

The papadum was wonderful!  It had a peppery and savory taste; when paired with the chutneys it was superb.  I loved the sweet tamarind and the onion tomato chutneys, but wasn’t impressed by the mint.  It was bland and didn’t add much to the papadum’s taste.

As Sanjit refreshed my water, he noticed my lacquered Puerto Rican and Cuban flags hanging from my neck and began to speak to me in Spanish.  It turned out, Sanjit loves Puerto Rican culture and cuisine.  He has visited Puerto Rico several times and eaten at many of the island’s best restaurants.  He loved the food so much he decided to save his money so he could apply to culinary school and study Latin American/Latin Caribbean cuisine. 

We spent a few minutes chatting about New York City’s best Puerto Rican and Latino restaurants.  He recommended a few restaurants in Astoria, Queens I can’t wait to visit.  Ready to order, I asked him which appetizer he thought was the most impressive on the menu.  He recommended the Samosa (a fried pastry filled with spiced meat, potatoes, chickpeas or lentils), Dal Papri (lentils and wafers served with yogurt and tamarind sauce), Samosa Chat (a Samosa tossed in tamarind sauce with diced vegetables, Indian herbs and spices) and the Chicken Chat (diced chicken and potatoes tossed in tamarind sauce with Indian herbs and spices).  Intrigued by Sanjit’s description of the Samosa chat, I asked him to bring me one; he assured me I wouldn’t be disappointed.

The Samosa Chat was delicious! The crunchy diced tomatoes, cucumber, and cilantro added an amazing savory and acidic flavor that worked very well with the sweet tamarind sauce.  The delicious samosa was full of diced potatoes cooked with various spices. It was a wonderful amalgamation of different flavors and textures.

Sanjit was pleased to hear that I enjoyed my appetizer. After sharing each others’ sofrito making secrets, he asked for my entrée order.  I was torn between the Tandoori chicken (Chicken marinated in red chili peppers, cayenne pepper, garlic and other spices cooked in an earthen clay pot called a tandoor) and the Chicken and Mushroom Curry (Chicken cooked with mushrooms, curry powder, garlic, ginger and other spices).  My drunk Mexican neighbor reminded me of Polash’s superb curries and insisted that I wouldn’t regret trying them.  Despite her revolting beer breathe and pushiness, I decided to listen to her advice and ordered the Chicken and Mushroom Curry.  Sanjit nodded in agreement and with a big toothy smile walked to the kitchen to place my order. 

Within minutes, Sanjit returned to my table and presented me what he called “Pollo Guisado con hongos en salsa de curry” (my entrée in Spanish). By then, Sanjit and I were speaking exclusively in Spanish; he even corrected my grammar a few times.  It was hilarious to hear Spanish spoken with an Indian accent.  I have to admit he spoke Spanish really well and even knew some Puerto Rican sayings as well.  It was so cool to have this cross cultural exchange.

My entree was served with a small bowl of yellow lentils and Basmati rice topped with sweet peas.  The rice was fluffy and buttery; the lentils were a bit bland, but still good.  The hearty pieces of chicken were moist and flavorful; the aromatic curry sauce was spicy, sweet, and a beautiful shade of yellow.  The soft mushrooms added a wonderful earthy taste to the dish.  The entrée’s flavors and textures were well balanced and truly delicious.

After my wonderful entrée, Sanjit asked me if I wanted dessert, but I declined.  Sanjit and I had a great chat about how he wants to fuse Indian and Puerto Rican desserts.  His idea of a Mango Lassi (a sweet or salted yogurt drink made with fruit) flavored flan sounded amazing.  Polash’s dessert menu is simple and consists of: Mango ice cream, Rasmali (fresh home made cheese balls), and Kher (Rice pudding with mango and coconut).

Appearances are often deceiving.  Polash’s simplicity might give the impression that the food is pedestrian and run of the mill, but once you give this amazing eatery a try, you won’t be disappointed.  They say variety is the spice of life, but I believe taking risks lets you sample those spices and therefore enrich your life.  Take a risk and eat at Polash!  Go taste for yourself! ¡Buen provecho!

 

Polash

2179 3^rd Avenue

New York, N.Y., 10035

HOURS:  Mon.-Fri. 12pm-4pm/5pm-11pm  Sat.-Sun. 12pm-11pm.

ATMOSPHERE:  Causal and relaxed.

SERVICE: Excellent.

SOUND LEVEL:  Conversational.

KID FRIENDLY: Yes.

RECOMMENDED DISHES:  The Curries ($8.95-$10.95), Tandoori ($9.95-$14.95), and Biriyani ($9.95-$11.95)

BEVERAGES:  Coffee, Teas, Cardomon Iced tea, Sodas (Ranging $1.50-$2.00)

PRICE RANGE: The menu is large, but can range from $8.95 to $14.95


 

Com Tam Ninh Kieu: Grandma’s Pho and rolls!

By Benjamin Ramos http://Sofritoinmysoul.blogspot.com

Mom-and-pop restaurants are the culinary backbone of our communities.  Often overlooked and underestimated, these restaurants serve us comfort food, give us a place to relax, and provide sanctuary from the stress of daily life. They allow us to reconnect with our community and with ourselves.  Any time I need that type of TLC, I go to Com Tam Ninh Kieu and indulge myself in the amazing flavors of Vietnam. 

Located in Kingsbridge Heights in the Northwest Bronx, Com Tam Ninh Kieu is a small mom-and-pop Vietnamese restaurant on Jerome Avenue; this section of the neighborhood is home to a small community of Vietnamese and Thai immigrants.  The decor is simple: there are 9 tables; a take out counter; and a large flat screen TV mounted on the right wall.  The restaurant is clean, simple and comfortable.  It’s a wonderful place to talk with friends, read, or write a review.

Com Tam Ninh Kieu's patrons are a cross section of the neighborhood.  On any given night, you can overhear conversations in English, Vietnamese, Spanish or certain West African languages.  This diverse clientele speaks volumes about their food and ambiance.

Like many other mom-and-pop restaurants, your dishes are cooked to order so service will be slow.  This is part of Com Tam Ninh Kieu's charm!  Don't look at it as your food taking a long time to cook. See it for what it really is: your food is being artfully crafted by wonderful chefs who are taking their time to cook you a delicious meal.

The last time I visited, my server was an older woman whose toothy smile and welcoming demeanor set the tone for a wonderful visit.  I couldn't help, but think of her as my Vietnamese abuelita (Grandmother in Spanish and pronounced “ah-bweh-lee-tah”).  All of Com Tam Ninh Kieu’s wait staff is attentive and welcoming.

As I looked over the menu, my abuelita said, “A big boy like you needs good food…soup… or pork chops.” I love pork chops more than anything or anyone, but I wasn’t in the mood for pork so I carefully perused the menu for the right order.  Com Tam Ninh Kieu’s menu is divided into eight sections: Khai Vi (Appetizers), Pho Bo (16 Beef Noodle Soups), Pho Kho (3 Beef Stews), Pho Ga (4 Chicken Rice Noodle Soups), Mi (2 Egg Noodle Soups), Dac Biet Hai San (3 Special Seafood), Bun (7 types ofVermicelli), and Com Dia (11 Rice Plates with Pork Chops, Beef or chicken).

As I looked over the appetizers, the words “Vietnamese Fried Egg Rolls” caught my famished eyes. According to my abuelita, they’re made fresh everyday and are, “…very good!” Intrigued, I decided to order them; she smiled and assured me I would love them. The Appetizers section also features: Fresh Spring Rolls (Clear rice paper rolls with vegetables and shrimp); Fish cakes (Breaded fish patties fried with herbs and spices); and Shrimp cakes (breaded shrimp patties made with herbs and spices).

As I tasted the egg rolls-5 to an order- I realized my abuelita was wrong!  The egg rolls weren’t good; they were amazing!  Warm and crispy, the rice paper wrap made a delightful crunch as I bit into them.  The moist stuffing (ground pork and chicken with mushrooms, carrots, cabbage, and kohlrabi) was savory and delicious.  A tangy dipping sauce (a mix of vinegar, chili paste, and garlic) was paired with the rolls, which added a wonderful heat and acidic flavor to the dish. 

My abuelita asked me what I thought of the egg rolls; she beamed with pride as I complimented the delicious appetizer.  She told me they were made from a special family recipe.  I asked her what made them special and she gave me a sly toothy smile and replied it was a secret.  She snickered, tussled my hair, and then asked for my dinner order. 

Com Tam Ninh Kieu’s dinner menu features an enormous selection of soups, stews and rice plates.  Their most popular dish is the Pho Bo (pronounced “fuh bah”), a traditional Vietnamese soup made with white rice noodles in clear beef broth, green and white onions and slim cuts of beef (such as steak, fatty flank, lean flank, brisket, tendon, tripe, or meatballs). Their menu features 16 varieties of Pho Bo each with a different combination of beef cuts.  

My abuelita recommended the Special Combo #2, which is a Pho Bo that combines all the beef cuts together in one soup.  She said it was their most popular Pho and assured me it was delicious.  Like any good grandson, I followed her advice and ordered the Special Combo #2.

Served with a side dish of bean sprouts, basil, lemon and jalapeño pepper slices, the soup was served piping hot in a large bowl; the portion is generous to say the least. The addition of Hoisin sauce (a Vietnamese/Chinese condiment made from soybean paste, garlic, chilies, various spices, sugar and vinegar) and Red Chili paste added a wonderful sweet and spicy seasoning to the already savory beef broth.  The plentiful beef cuts were tender and delicious. The bean sprouts, basil and jalapeños provided a nice crunchy texture, in contrast to the long soft rice noodles.  The Pho was simple, delicious and satisfying; I could see why it’s a neighborhood favorite.

Com Tam Ninh Kieu might be hard to pronounce, but the food speaks very clearly for itself.  So if you are interested in delicious South East Asian food, then head up to the North West Bronx and visit Com Tam Ninh Kieu! Remember to say hi to my abuelita!  Go taste for yourself! ¡Buen provecho!

Com Tam Ninh Kieu 

2641 Jerome Ave 

Bronx, NY 10468 

(718) 365-2680

HOURS:  Open 7 days from 9am-10pm.

ATMOSPHERE:  Casual, warm, fun and inviting.

SERVICE: Good.

SOUND LEVEL:  Conversational. 

KID FRIENDLY: Yes. 

RECOMMENDED DISHES:  Pho Bo.

BEVERAGES:  Vietnamese hot coffee, ice coffee, and various sodas.

PRICE RANGE: Khai Vi (Appetizers $5.50-$8.00), Pho Bo (16 Beef Noodle Soups $7.50-$8.95), Pho Kho (3 Beef Stews  $8.50), Pho Ga (4 Chicken Rice Noodle Soups  $7.00), Mi (2 Egg Noodle Soups $7.50), Dac Biet Hai San (3 Special Seafood $7.50), Bun (7 types ofVermicelli $7.00-$9.00), and Com Dia (11 Rice Plates with Pork Chops, Beef or chicken $7.00-9.00).

 

Warique: Jaleas in Harlem

By Benjamin Ramos http://Sofritoinmysoul.blogspot.com

Have you ever ordered a Pisco (Pees-koh) Sour?  Do you enjoy ceviche (Seh-vee-cheh)? Does the word Jalea (Ha-ley-ah) make your mouth water?  If you have no idea what I am talking about, then its time you went to Harlem to visit Warique Peruvian Kitchen.

Warique is a small restaurant with ten dark wooden tables; beautiful paintings; an exposed brick wall to the right; and a small bar in the back. Cozy and comfortable, Warique is perfect for a romantic date or an after work meal with friends. 

Warique’s wait staff is wonderful. My server was friendly, warm, and attentive.  I noticed the other servers were warm and mindful with their customers as well.

Warique has a diverse clientele; it’s both a neighborhood eatery as well as a destination restaurant.  The night I visited, I sat between an older Latina lesbian couple and a young Latino with a group of his friends.  Occasionally, the couple would feed each other forkfuls of food and kiss; while the Latino guy raved about his recent honeymoon cruise to South America.

Surrounded by romance and jubilation, I decided to treat myself to one of my favorite appetizers: a Causa Peruana con Pollo.  A causa is a cold mashed potato ball filled with avocado, crunchy peppers, cilantro, aji amarillo (South American hot yellow chile pepper), and chicken or tuna.  Warique features other appetizers such as: Papas a la Huancaina (Yellow potatoes served with a spicy cream sauce); Anticuchos (skewered veal hearts); and Choros a la Chalaca (Peruvian style mussels marinated in lemon juice).

Warique’s causas are wonderful!  The potatoes were soft and chilled to perfection.  The shredded roasted chicken breast was moist and flavorful. The cilantro, peppers, and avocado added sweetness and crispiness to the dish.

As I ate my causa, the young Latino talked incessantly about his cruise to South America with his partner Paul.  They loved Peru and its food. A mutual friend of theirs recommended Warique for good Peruvian food in New York City.  Enthusiastically, the young Latino ordered Pisco Sours for everyone at his table.

A Pisco Sour is a delicious South American cocktail prepared with Peruvian Pisco (a grape brandy), lime or lemon juice, syrup, ice, egg whites, and Angostura bitters.  At the time, it had been quite a while since I had ordered a Pisco Sour and decided to follow suit. Unlike other Pisco Sours, Warique’s cocktails are lightly dusted with cinnamon, which adds a spicy taste to the usual sweet and sour flavors.  Usually, I don’t enjoy alcoholic beverages with my meals, but the Pisco Sour and causa combination was phenomenal.

As I looked over the entrees, I overheard the Latinas talking about their Ceviches; a popular seafood dish in South America, typically made from fresh raw fish marinated in lemon or lime juices and spiced with chili peppers or ají. 

One of them ordered El Ceviche de Camaron (Shrimp) and the other El Ceviche de Pescado (Sliced raw fish).  They loved their dishes and compared them to other ceviches they had eaten in Peru.  It was adorable to watch them reminiscing about how they met in Peru, fell in love, and moved to New York City to go to school.  I couldn’t help eavesdropping on their romantic and inspiring story.  It was so beautiful to see how their romance had stood up against the test of time.

Tempted by the ceviche, I continued to review the menu, which features: Sopas (Soups), Pollo a la Brasa (Blackened Chicken), Ceviches, Ensaladas (Salads), Pescados y Mariscos (Fish and Seafood), Platos de Fondo (Typical Plates).  For more information on the menu go to:

http://www.yelp.com/menu/warique-peruvian-kitchen-manhattan

I was ready to order a ceviche until the word Jalea caught my eye.  A Jalea is a seafood dish composed of lightly battered fried fish or assorted seafood; Peruvian corn; fried potatoes or yucca; and is garnished with red onions, tomatoes, and cilantro.  The Puerto Rican in me couldn’t pass up the chance to eat a plate of fried delicacies, so I ordered the Jalea with a small side order of white rice and beans. 

My eyes nearly popped out of my skull when my server brought me my entrée. The plate was overflowing with fried shrimp, fish, clams, and calamari.  The seafood was wonderful; it was crispy on the outside, moist on the inside and the lime juice drizzled on top gave the dish the perfect hint of acid.  The sweetness of the tomatoes and corn complemented the savory flavor of the red onions and cilantro.  The fried yucca fries were good, but a few of the strips were overdone and dried out.  The rice and beans were mediocre; the beans were bland and needed salt.

After such a sumptuous meal, I decided to skip dessert.  Warique’s dessert menu is simple: Assorted ice creams; Picarones (a fried doughnut made from squash or sweet potatoes); and slices of Lucuma (a unique Peruvian fruit that tastes like caramel custard and has a pasty texture).

My visit to Warique was wonderful!  The food is delicious and the portions are generous.  Also, it was inspiring to sit between an older queer couple and a newly wed beginning his life with his partner.  It reminded me of how lucky I am to have found my BearBear David.  I hope one day we’ll be newly weds and then an older couple sharing a meal at Warique.  Unfortunately, he hates seafood and would probably dump me the minute I took him there.  I guess we’ll be the lovey-dovey couple at his favorite restaurant: McDonald’s.  Ugh! Pray for me.

Do yourselves a favor folks, head to Harlem and get yourself a Jalea!  Go taste for yourself! ¡Buen provecho!

Warique Peruvian Kitchen

852 Amsterdam Ave
(between 101st St & 102nd St)
(212) 865-0101

Check them out on Yelp: http://www.yelp.com/biz/warique-peruvian-kitchen-manhattan

HOURS:  Mon-Wed, Sun 12 pm - 10:30 pm/Fri-Sat 12 pm - 11:30 pm

ATMOSPHERE:  Casual, warm, fun and inviting.

SERVICE: Excellent.

SOUND LEVEL: Conversational.

KID FRIENDLY: Not really, small space.

RECOMMENDED DISHES:  See article above.

BEVERAGES:  Sodas, Wines, Beer, mixed drinks, and water.

PRICE RANGE:  $20-$30

Mario’s: Supping with the Sopranos

By Benjamin Ramos http://Sofritoinmysoul.blogspot.com

Amongst the countless gelato places, cafés, bakeries, ristorantes, and pizzerias of Little Italy in the Bronx, there is one restaurant whose food, service and history stands far above their esteemed competition: Mario’s!

Since 1919, five generations of the Migliucci family have served authentic Neapolitan food at Mario’s in the Bronx’s Little Italy; an amazing neighborhood, which stretches across East 187th Street from Arthur Avenue to Prospect Avenue, known for its wonderful Italian and Albanian fare.

Mario’s is a large restaurant with ample floor space and exposed brick trim along the walls, which are covered with oil paintings, photographs of celebrity clientele, newspaper reviews, and culinary awards.  Despite its size, Mario’s is warm and cozy. 

The night I visited, Mario’s was full of families laughing, clicking wine glasses and enjoying themselves.  To my right was an older Italian couple, the husband-who I am pretty sure was the inspiration for Tony Soprano-was a heavy set with a receding hair line, guido accent and  boisterous personality.  His wife had huge hair, the same accent, and wore enough make up to compete on Rupaul’s Drag Race.

My neighbors and I shared the same server, who was attentive, friendly and quick.  I noticed he treated my neighbors with the utmost care and respect. He referred to “Tony” as sir and made sure to get everything he ordered as fast as could. 

Mario’s menu is divided into the following categories: Soups, Salads, Appetizers, Pasta, Cheeses, Seafood, and Entrees.  For more information on the menu go to: http://mariosrestarthurave.com/about.html

As I contemplated the appetizers, Tony and his wife were arguing over which appetizer to share.  He wanted the the Eggplant Sciliana (eggplant baked with a marinara sauce with capers, olives, garlic and  pieces of toasted bread) and she wanted the Fresh Mozzarella Coprese (a salad made up of slices of mozarella cheese with tomatoes and fresh basil) with wine.

After a loud and animated argument (with a lot of f-bombs thrown around), they decided not to share and each ordered whatever they wanted.  Tony’s argument in favor of the Eggplant Sciliana might not have convinced his wife to order it, but it did me.

He was right, the Eggplant Sciliana was delicious!  The eggplant was soft and baked to perfection. The sauce, seasoned with garlic and oregano, was hearty and delicious.  The capers and olives gave the dish a wonderful kick of salt and the toasted pieces of bread added a delightful crunchy texture.

As I ate, I decided to take out my camera and take a picture of my eggplant.  Tony must have seen the flash from the corner of his eye and thought that I had taken his picture. Immediately, he confronted me, demanding to know why I had taken his picture.  I saw my life flash before my eyes and almost lost bowel control. Before I could explain (and beg for mercy), his wife, who had seen what I had done, explained and told him to apologize.

He begrudgingly apologized and explained he didn’t like his picture being taken. As a friendly gesture, he asked me what I thought of the Eggplant Sciliana and I told him it was wonderful. He turned to his wife and told her they should’ve ordered the eggplant for two.  She gave me an annoyed, yet comical look and I smiled back. Thank God for his wife! If she hadn’t spoken up, I am pretty sure I would’ve been found floating face down in the Bronx River the next morning.

Happy to be alive, I looked over the Entrée and Steaks/chops sections of the menu and couldn’t decide between the Veal Cutlet a la Parmigiana, Veal Scaloppine a la Pizzaiola with mushrooms (thinly sliced cuts of veal cooked in tomato sauce with mushrooms), or Steak à la Pizzaiola with mushrooms (steak cooked in tomato sauce with mushrooms).  I chose the Veal Scaloppine a la Pizzaiola with mushrooms and ordered it with the pasta; all of Mario’s entrees are served with vegetables, pasta with tomato sauce or potato croquette.

The veal cutlets were moist, soft and delicious. The tomato sauce with mushrooms was excellent; it was seasoned with basil, oregano,  garlic and had diced roasted tomatoes, which added a wonderful sweetness to the dish.  The mushrooms were plump, juicy and had a rich earthy flavor.  The Ziti side dish was aldente and perfectly complemented the meal.

As I ate my dinner, Tony and his wife talked about their children, the people who owed them money, and some poor guy named Guiseppe who “was going to get what he deserved.”  Hearing a vague, yet terrifying, statement like that might’ve taken someone else’s appetite away, but my dinner was too good to let a possible death threat ruin my meal.

Mario’s dessert menu is simple and features: Tiramisu, Molten Lava cake, and Old Fashioned Plain Cheese Cake.  As delicious, as it all sounded I skipped dessert and asked my server for the check.  Tony’s wife asked me why I hadn’t ordered any dessert and I explained that I’m diabetic and had eaten enough carbohydrates.  Tony advised me not to eat so much next time and to order the tiramisu, because it was  “friggin’” delicious.  It was both a suggestion and order, to which  I responded, “Yes, sir, I will.”

I don’t know for sure if Tony was a “goodfella” or not, but I am certain that Mario’s food, service and ambiance are exceptional.  So if you’re looking for amazing Italian cuisine, head to the Bronx’s Little Italy and visit Mario’s.  It’s friggin’ awesome! Go taste for yourself! ¡Buen provecho, or as our Italian family might say, Buon appetito!

Mario's Restaurant 
2342 Arthur Ave. 
Bronx,  NY  10458  718-584-1188

http://mariosrestarthurave.com/index.html

HOURS:  See website!

ATMOSPHERE:  Friendly, fun and joyful.

SERVICE: Excellent.

SOUND LEVEL: Conversational.

KID FRIENDLY: Yes!

RECOMMENDED DISHES:  See above.

BEVERAGES:  A fine selection of imported and domestic wines to choose from their wine list. Cocktails, Liquors, Beers, and Soda.

PRICE RANGE:  Moderate ($15-$30)